2005 Barolo Monfortino Riserva

Tasting the 2005 Barolo Riserva Monfortino after the Cascina Francia is quite a shock. While the Cascina Francia is quite delicate, the Monfortino is a brute. Deep, dark and massively tannic, the 2005 is going to need as much as another decade to enter the early part of its drinking window. Sweet rose petal and mint notes gradually open up, but only offer a glimpse of what the 2005 will become. Monfortino is never giving in the early going (except right after bottling), so it is not much of a surprise to see it going through and awkward stage. Readers will have to be especially patient.

I am totally taken aback by the 2005 Monfortino. Every other young Monfortino I have tasted from barrel has shown its quality and personality immediately. The 2005 is an exception. A wine that was hard and compact until quite recently, the 2005 is finally starting to open up. The fruit is incredibly pure, precise and brilliant, but the best is yet to come. This is a great showing from the 2005. Tasted from magnum.

Mid, mature-looking ruby with orange tinges. Much more mature looking in fact than the Clos de Tart. Very concentrated, classic Nebbiolo nose. Brooding with hints of Chinotto and sweet spice more than fruit. Very beguiling, pulls you right in with dense fruit and the merest hint of leather. High acidity impact, but with such density of fruit. No heavyweight, though. Quite powerful tannin. At the beginning of its evolution but already remarkably accessible. Long. (WS)