2008 Hermannshohle Grosses Gewachs

White peach with hints of spruce resin, scrub, and quarry dust in the nose of Donnhoff's 2008 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Grosses Gewachs prepare the way for a subtly oily-textured, sappy, peachy and resinous palate concentration accented by grapefruit peel and white pepper. This clings and invigorates with dramatic grip and energy while remaining coolly herbal and mineral, a mounting sense of salinity drawing out your saliva. As it opens to the air, a classic sense of layering of mineral, fruit, herb and spice becomes more clearly visible, but a dynamic sense of oscillation of flavors also remains. Look for this profoundly complex, intriguing, reserved yet startlingly powerful Riesling to evolve fascinatingly for 10-12 years. It was back to the roots this year, announced a beaming Helmut Donnhoff when I arrived to taste his 2008s. He harvested in the last week of October and first half of November during which time he characterized the weather as cool and stable. I can guarantee you, he added, that we didn't for a single day have muddy boots. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Some citrus fruit already breaking through the more herbaceous fermentation aromas. Very taut, but also very pure, refined yellow fruit and a generous minerality define the composition of this wine. Though 2008 contributes plenty of acidity, it never grates. What to drink this wine with? A little Johann Sebastian Bach would be my choice. (MS)