2006 Chambolle Musigny Les Feusselottes

Despite early picking (as with the corresponding Les Cras), Meo's 2006 Chambolle-Musigny Les Feusselottes Frere et Soeur ascended to around 14.25% alcohol – his highest of the vintage. And despite the hail, he says this fruit permitted plenty of extraction during its long fermentation. A graphite-like note accents aromas of red fruit preserves. On the palate, this is quite sweet, with its alcohol well-hidden but a slightly confectionary and borderline late-harvest character that's accentuated by the sweet side of (two-thirds new) oak. Ultimately, an abundance of tannin becomes evident in the finish, another aspect accentuated at least at this youthful stage by the wood. I'd want to revisit these negociant Chambolle crus in 2010 before I would hazard a prognosis as to their potential for longer in the cellar. Jean-Nicolas Meo harvested 2006 fruit between 13.25-14.25% potential alcohol, slightly higher than in 2005. Except for a few instances of vineyards touched by hail, he said, he vinified in essentially the same way (including the same percentages of new barrels) as he had in 2005. Meo notes that the pHs of his 2006s ended up quite high after their malos, and while this contributes to their sense of softness and generosity, I sometimes find these wines wanting for some vivacity or primary juiciness. (I have appended to the description of Meo's negociant bottlings the words "Frere et Soeur" that appear underneath "Meo-Camuzet" on their labels.) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25