2006 Testamatta

This is by far the finest of the three bottles of 2006 Testamatta I have tasted recently. The full-bodied, dense 2006 Testamatta explodes from the glass with masses of ripe dark fruit, menthol, licorice, spices and French oak, all of which are wrapped around an intense core of powerful structure. The wine offers superb richness and length, with imposing tannins that build on the finish. Today the 2006 doesn't appear to have the finesse of the 2004 but it is a terrific effort all the same. In 2006 Graetz opted for a super-selective approach in which he produced just 10,000 bottles of Testamatta as opposed to the more normal 18,000-20,000. One can only wonder if some amount of balance and harmony was sacrificed in the process.

This is by far the finest of the three bottles of 2006 Testamatta I have tasted recently. The full-bodied, dense 2006 Testamatta explodes from the glass with masses of ripe dark fruit, menthol, licorice, spices and French oak, all of which are wrapped around an intense core of powerful structure. The wine offers superb richness and length, with imposing tannins that build on the finish. Today the 2006 doesn’t appear to have the finesse of the 2004 but it is a terrific effort all the same. In 2006 Graetz opted for a super-selective approach in which he produced just 10,000 bottles of Testamatta as opposed to the more normal 18,000-20,000. One can only wonder if some amount of balance and harmony was sacrificed in the process. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. I continue to be impressed with the beautiful wines of Bibi Graetz. These are highly singular, expressive wines that merit serious consideration. Various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Trilussa Wine Company, Greenbrae CA; tel. (415) 499 8466, Siema Wines LLC, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-1200, MS Walker, Sommerville, MA; tel. (617) 776-6700

This is by far the finest of the three bottles of 2006 Testamatta I have tasted recently. The full-bodied, dense 2006 Testamatta explodes from the glass with masses of ripe dark fruit, menthol, licorice, spices and French oak, all of which are wrapped around an intense core of powerful structure. The wine offers superb richness and length, with imposing tannins that build on the finish. Today the 2006 doesn’t appear to have the finesse of the 2004 but it is a terrific effort all the same. In 2006 Graetz opted for a super-selective approach in which he produced just 10,000 bottles of Testamatta as opposed to the more normal 18,000-20,000. One can only wonder if some amount of balance and harmony was sacrificed in the process. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Aug 2009, www.robertparker.com