2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Stag's Leap Vineyard

Good bright red-ruby. Medicinal black cherry, menthol and licorice lifted by a suggestion of exotic fruits. A supple midweight with modest definition of flavor. Seems a bit pinched on the back half, with the dusty finishing tannins turning a tad green with air.

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon SLV Estate shows off deep layers of expressive black fruit, licorice, white flowers and tar. Here, too, the influence of Antinori is felt in the wine's polish, even if the real leap in quality does not take place until 2010 for this bottling. Layers of fruit build effortlessly to the big, dramatic finish. This is a hugely delicious wine with plenty of intensity and sheer personality.

The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon SLV Estate shows off deep layers of expressive black fruit, licorice, white flowers and tar. Here, too, the influence of Antinori is felt in the wine’s polish, even if the real leap in quality does not take place until 2010 for this bottling. Layers of fruit build effortlessly to the big, dramatic finish. This is a hugely delicious wine with plenty of intensity and sheer personality. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. The changes that have taken place at Stags Leap Wine Cellars over the last few years are nothing less than stunning. The Antinori family bought a 15% stake in Stags Leap Wine Cellars in 2007 and was appointed technical director as part of the deal. Long time winemaker Renzo Cotarella, who oversees all of the Antinori wines in Italy plus Antica on Atlas Peak, was brought in to consult. Sadly, the 2008 Cabernets are plagued by brett and are largely disappointing, especially considering the quality these vineyards are capable of. Some of the other recent releases I tasted were frankly undrinkable. Quality takes a meaningful step up in 2009 as the Cabernets acquire elegance and finesse. For some of the bottlings, though, the most obvious jump in quality is from 2009 and 2010. Either way, these new and upcoming releases are compelling and merit significant attention. I can’t possibly understate the huge impact Antinori, Renzo Cotarella and the team at Stags Leap Wine Cellars are having on the 2009s and 2010s. These are going to be fascinating wines to follow over the coming years and decades. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to taste the Artemis and Cask 23 2010s as the final blends had not yet been made at the time of my tastings. Tel. (707) 944-2020; www.cask23.com