2005 Chambolle Musigny Clos de l'Orme

Cathiard’s 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Clos de l’Orme was in half new wood, but came out of barrel and into tank after one year. Boasting bright, fresh, ripe red raspberry aromas, this comes onto the palate with surprising creaminess, with salted meat stock underpinnings to its persistently bright, infectiously juicy, lightly caramel-tinged fruit. Such a tender, delicate, refined Pinot is what Burgundians would traditionally call “tres Chambolle.” It should make ravishing drinking anytime over the next several years. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($39.00;85). A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

Good bright red. Pure aromas of raspberry and smoke. Soft and lush, with moderately deep flavors of raspberry and flowers. Finishes with dusty, slightly dry tannins. Cathiard had already moved this cuvee into stainless steel tank in November to preserve the fruit.