2007 Beaune Toussaints

The Morot 2007 Beaune Toussaints displays deeper, cleaner meatiness and plummy fruit than its counterpart from Cent Vignes, along with a spinach-like nuttiness that, to be sure, has its vegetal side but which I find adds attractive complexity. That the mid-palate here betrays the estate’s lightness of touch in vinification is just as well, since a slight numbing of tannin and slight bitterness already creep into an otherwise satisfyingly long, juicy, understated finish. This held up well for a day in bottle and should prove capable of delivering considerable pleasure over at least the next couple of years. Geoffrey Choppin de Janvry was among those growers to report that more rigorous sorting was required for his 2008 fruit than had been needed the previous vintage. I tasted his 2008s from tank, where they were spending a bit longer than usual, in order to gas-out after very late malos. Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832 9083