2007 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Auslese 53

The 2007 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling Auslese Nr. 53 (A.P.#19) smells and tastes of yellow plum and quince preserves mingled with marzipan and grapefruit zest, clearly pointing toward significant noble rot. But site typical, almost peat-like smokiness and notes of red currant preserves emerge, too. While imposingly creamy and quite obviously sweet, this possesses spine-tingling acidity, as well. The overall effect is one of richness combined with refreshment and lift, and as such represents another instance of this vintage at its distinctive best. It should remain well worth revisiting for the better part of three decades. Christoph Tyrell – like his Ruwer neighbors – had a far more successful vintage in 2007 than in 2006, although his lighter dry wines were a bit shrill and reminiscent of marginally ripe Sauvignon Blanc (more gooseberry than red currant; cassis leaf than black currant). His numerous Auslesen – while they won’t make one forget their amazing 2005 counterparts – are nonetheless noteworthy, and sure to be long-lived. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463.