2003 Clos de la Roche

Tasted from magnum, the 2003 Clos de la Roche is stunningly beautiful. Rich, voluptuous and ripe in all of its glory, the 2003 is a real head-turner. It might not be as complex or intellectual as other vintages, but frankly, who cares? Hard candy, super-ripe red cherry, wild flowers, rose petals and sweet spices are pushed forward. Even with all of its ripeness and intensity, the 2003 has plenty of tannin, underlying structure and salinity. For current drinking, the 2003 is a total pleasure bomb. This was the last vintage made by Romain Lignier, who fell ill right after the harvest. Lignier gave the 2003 just 12 days on the skins, with only pumpovers and no punchdowns, in order to not extract too many aggressive tannins. Mother Nature did not give Romain Lignier a great vintage for his last year, but Lignier made a great wine anyway.

Full red-ruby. Superripe nose hints at kirsch and almost port-like damp earth. Then huge, sweet and thick in the mouth, and fresher than the nose suggests, with a floral element emerging to lift the powerful red berry fruit. A wine of impressive volume and dimension, finishing with big but thoroughly ripe tannins. This grand cru seemed to grow livelier with aeration, suggesting it will age well.

The superb aromatics of the 2003 Clos de la Roche burst with intense dark cherries and flowers. Awesomely supple and suave, this hugely generous effort slathers the palate with lush, satiny layers of red as well as black cherries. Medium to full-bodied, it also displays a long, fruit-filled finish. Surprisingly fresh and well-balanced for a 2003, it should be drunk between 2008 and 2017. Importer: Neal Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990