2005 Gruner Veltliner Loibner Berg Smaragd

The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Loibnerberg raises the quotient of fruit, pepper, and spice, along with aromas and flavors of apricot liqueur and smoky tobacco. The combination of lush, opulent, sweet fruit, dark honey, and mocha cream with pungent white and Szechuan pepper, brown spices, eucalyptus, and smoke are striking. This wine certainly supports Pichler’s suggestion that his 2005s are like 1995 or 1999 only denser. Perhaps the wine’s extract explains how well it hides its 14% alcohol. Also recommended: 2004 Riesling Federspiel Von den Terrassen ($29.00; 86). Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800