1990 Montrose

An absolute monster of a Saint-Estèphe, the 1990 Château Montrose has to-die-for notes of ripe red and black currants, smoked tobacco, lead pencil, saddle leather, truffle, and a hint of eucalyptus that develops with time in the glass. These all carry to a full-bodied, incredibly concentrated 1990 with a layered, stacked mid-palate, resolved tannins, and incredible length. There's clearly a kiss of background brett here (which is a known issue with this vintage), but it doesn't detract in the least in my view, and the density, texture, and power of this beauty, with no sensation of weight, is something to behold. It has a touch of bricking and is clearly fully mature, but this has the concentration and depth to evolve gracefully for another two decades. I don't see any upside here, though, so don't be afraid to open bottles!

The 1990 Montrose is a divisive wine that can either leave you entranced or scratching your head, depending upon the level of Brettanomyces. Before I continue, this bottle did possess some Brett, albeit not as extreme as I have encountered previously. It has a powerful nose, animally, touches of singed leather and mocha. It is not Rhône-like in style, but it does lean that way. The palate is dense and grippy, with plush black fruit, some Brettanomyces compromising its delineation, and a dash of black pepper on the finish. On this occasion, I feel the 2010 Montrose shades it, although a second bottle proved fresher. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the Icons of Bordeaux dinner at Legacy Records in New York.

Served from magnum. This is tobacco, cigar box, turmeric, white pepper spice, olive paste, liqourice root and smoked earth, gentle autumnal fruits but still beating within a tannic frame. Harvested September 14 and October 3, after one of the hottest growing seasons on record at the time.