2007 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre

The folks at Fevre call Vaulorent their “eighth grand cru,” a claim on which neither this vineyard’s location nor the quality of the ensuing wine cast any doubt. Indeed, it seems to me almost ludicrous – even commercially-speaking – to observe the tradition of labeling this wine with the name “Fourchaume,” an opinion I vociferously attempted to force on Fevre commercial director Stephane Follin-Arbelet! Fevre’s high-elevation parcels in Pied d’Aloue and adjacent Chapelot – which together inform their 2007 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre – were their worst-hit of all by hail, suffering 60% loss. What emerged, though, is very impressive. Deep, rich pineapple and peach fruit accented with brown spices, lily perfume, grapefruit zest, and crushed stone form a seamless, polished carpet of fruit and mineral that could not contrast more dramatically with the dynamic personality of this year’s Fourchaume. There is an almost doughy feel to the palate and a soothing length that will put you in reverie, and whose spell should not be broken for the next 6-8 years at least. Didier Seguier and his team have managed to follow up their amazing 2006s with an equally remarkable collection of 2007s (though he insists that 6 to 9 months after bottling – when I tasted them – “is the worst time for expressing the purity of fruit”!). Harvesting here began early, on September 6 – the earliest start on record save for 2003 – but without feeling any compunction about taking one’s time, Seguier emphasized. Even so, the task was completed in 11 days, harvesting fruit of impeccable ripeness and harmonious though prominent acidity at a time when many growers were wise not to have begun yet. Without question, the rigorous sorting that all of the grapes undergo here is among the keys to the purity and the transparency to nuance of these wines. As usual at this address, even when one reaches the roughly 80% level of barrique (none, new, though) a smell or taste of wood is the farthest thing from one’s mind. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706