2006 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre

From a high-elevation parcel of true Montee de Tonerre plus a vineyard in the south-facing, grand cru-like Chapelot below, the Fevre 2006 Chablis Montee de Tonerre seems to reflect its fossil-rich Kimmeridgian soil in a strikingly overt chalkiness in the nose and on the palate. Blueberry, grapefruit, and lemon too are prominent, but the minerals set the tone and the long finish is a bit austere in its reliance on them. Emerging deep-seated nuttiness and herbal inflections promise further complexity as this enjoys a couple of years of bottle age. It should keep well for a decade if not longer. Didier Seguier has presided over a remarkable surge in quality at this address during the past decade in which Henriot has owned Fevre. The wines are now every bit as impressive as the estate’s vast and superbly-situated acreage, not to mention uncannily consistent in quality. Somehow, Fevre has acquired a reputation in some quarters simply for their widespread use of oak. In fact – just as at the region’s other top addresses, Dauvissat and Raveneau – the wood here is nearly always discreet, and Seguier is keen to finish the elevage on most of his wines in tank once he deems them to have spent long enough in barrel. Hand-harvesting and two sorting tables help insure quality of fruit, and Seguier’s insistence that botrytis was unproblematic for him in either 2006 or 2005 is ably supported by the gustatory evidence. Fermentation was relatively rapid, he relates, and the malo-lactic transformation not especially profound, due to the dominance of ripe, tartaric acid in the fruit. With one exception, the grand cru wines (all of which are vinified ca. 80% in barrel) had just been prepped for bottling (including cross-flow filtration) when I tasted them, but that did not prevent them from showing brilliantly. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706