2004 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre

A myriad of spices are interspersed with apples and menthol notes in the nose of the 2004 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre (domaine). A fleshy, complex wine, it regales the palate with iodine, minerals, spices, white pepper, and resin-like flavors. Exceptionally pure, crystalline, and long in the finish, this medium to full-bodied effort is a candidate for drinking over the next 6 years. Note: All the William Fevre wines tasted for this report are “domaine” bottlings, from the estate’s 40 hectares of vines (98.84 acres), which is clearly marked on the label. There are also Maison William Fevre – negociant – bottlings, none of which were tasted. The rapidity with which Joseph Henriot turned around this once moribund estate is remarkable. Under the supervision and winemaking of super-talented Didier Seguier (from Cucq-Les-Vielmur in France’s southwest, near Castres), Domaine William Fevre has been catapulted into the top echelon of Chablis’s producers (and if you don’t believe me, just ask Vincent Dauvissat or Bernard Raveneau). Didier Seguier attributes the estate’s success in 2004 to two key factors, “the fact that we treated the vines early and therefore did not have oidium problems,” and, just as importantly, “our yields were lower than most because this estate’s vines are over 40 years old and cannot produce plethoric quantities.” On average, across the entire estate, William Fevre harvested 60-65 hectoliters per hectares, 10-15% less than two of this region’s most famous stars, Vincent Dauvissat and the Raveneau brothers. Though Seguier loves his 2004s (“They are precise, classical Chablis.”), his preference is for the 2002s, “the finest vintage I’ve experienced.” Importer: Henriot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6700

Low-key nose. Slightly mealy and broader than some. But great concentration and weight. (JR)

(domain) Pale yellow-green. Pure aromas of crushed stone, minerals and pepper, along with a saline nuance. Dense, sweet and peppery, with a lively note of ginger. Quite broad but not at all heavy. Finishes with lovely persistence. Fevre owns vines in Pied d'Alloue, which gives purity and precision, and Chapelots, which yields wines with more power and body.