2007 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre

The Billaud-Simon 2007 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre originates in three of the vineyards that are collectively permitted to utilize that name, and which were unfortunately strafed by hail, but happily shows no ill effects. As with this year’s Mont-de-Milieu, there is a modest barrel component here – in contrast to normal practice – due to the logistics of vinifying the small volume of juice. Ripe pear and pink grapefruit wreathed in wood smoke on the nose lead to a soothing, subtly creamy, and luscious palate that nonetheless preserves ample refreshment as well as finishing lift, energy, and transparency to nuances of chalk, salt, and fusil elements. This should be well worth following for at least 4-5 years. Bernard Billaud’s 2006s reflected their relatively late picking and encroaching botrytis of that vintage in opulence and exoticism. His 2007 premier crus – excepting a hail-influenced Mont-de-Milieu – could hardly be more different: models of brightness, long-line, and transparency to mineral nuance. As usual, the grand cru wines here are released late, and Billaud is highly reluctant to show them in company with the premier crus of the same vintage, so I include on this occasion my notes on those finished 2006s. Billaud’s nephew – a stake holder who has had hands-on responsibility in the cellar in recent years – left the estate after the vinification of the 2008s, amid rumors of an impending legal dispute. Imported by Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900