2006 Saarburger Rausch Kabinett 5

The 2006 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett trocken, on the other hand, represents – as usual – a single barrel of what Zilliken deems Kabinett quality from among the few (some years only one) that went dry. Honeydew melon, lime, and flowers in the nose introduce a surprisingly creamy-textured, plush palate, to be sure bright with citrus fruits and adamantly dry, yet texturally alluring. Again, here’s an instance of stuffing (at 11.5% alcohol) and palpable extract combined with clarity, refreshment, and lift. Melon, fresh cherry, lime and wet stone inform the mouth-watering finish. This would be best drunk within 4-6 years, though I don’t know of anyone who tests that. “You’ll see” – or rather, taste – says Hanno Zilliken, “we had very little botrytis here. But, the bunches were really tiny. I had no problem with ruptured grapes, or with getting wines straight as an arrow.” He harvested rapidly, beginning the 9th of October. “I have to be honest, though,” he continues, “We turned away from risking too much. We were shocked – or at least frightened – by the news we were hearing from other German regions about rotting and acetic grapes. The weather was crappy: I mean, humid and overcast, with a troubling forecast. With a few warm days we selected. But the material was no longer stable. I had the feeling the fruit was exhausted.” So in the end we have wonderful wines this year, but nothing approaching the vast array of elixirs one associates with this address in other top vintages. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; (800) 596-9463