1994 Leoville Poyferre

The 1994 Léoville Poyferré has a mature nose with melted tar, leather and animal fur infusing the black fruit. It's not nearly as precise as today's wines, but attractive in its own way. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins that frame the aniseed-tinged fruit. It's fairly muscular on the finish. Drink this now and over the next two or three years. Tasted at the château.

The 1994 Léoville-Poyferré is a vintage tasted on two or three occasions. Typical of this growing season, the nose does not want to come out and play at first, then almost reluctantly yields smudged mulberry scents. Monotone? A little. The palate is, however, nicely balanced with quite rigid tannins, decent weight with ample vigour. It was at full flight in the late Nineties (picked off a few restaurant lists at silly prices) but now it is just commencing its decline. Large formats might be interesting though. Tasted at the vertical tasting with Didier Cuvelier in 2009.

Balanced, elegant and generous, with a welcoming, slightly toasted and exotic nose. Tannins are melted at this point, practically conducting the fruit without moving a muscle. The bramble fruit has also reached a soft, sweetened stage. 27 years old and a masterclass in older Médocs. 7% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc complete the blend.