2004 Unico

The 2004 Único magnum was a revelation. It's very fine, elegant and balanced, starting to show more tertiary notes and the Vega Sicilia perfume. It's medium to full-bodied with a fine thread and very good balance. You can drink this now, but it should go on for decades. This contains as much as 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. 2,227 magnums produced. Artwork by Luis Feito.

A very classy Unico with tight, fine-grained tannins. Savory tar and dried leaves mingle with blackcurrant and wild blackberry, alongside hints of dried oregano. So refined and driven. You can feel the cabernet character shining through. This will go a long way. 87% tempranillo and 13% cabernet sauvignon. Tasted from magnum. Drink or hold.

87% Tinto Fino, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon – relatively high proportion of Cabernet! ‘Typical’ winter, mild spring with no frost, warm summer with ‘occasional rain at the right time’ and dry harvest, 28 September to 7 October. After fermentation the wine remained in large-capacity wooden vats for 15 months. Then it matured for 17 months in new barrels and 26 months in large-capacity wooden vats. The remaining time was spent in bottle until release in 2014. 87,516 bottles, 2,227 magnums, 156 double magnums and 5 Impériales. From magnum. Glowing mature, shaded garnet. Meaty nose with shades of raw meat and curry spices. Very juicy and mellifluous (cf the 2006) and already providing much drinking pleasure. Marked acidity. There’s something like a really fine Sangiovese in the lightly agricultural nature of this wine.