2004 Louis Roederer

The 2004 Brut Vintage emerges from the glass with attractive layers of fruit that come together in a gorgeous expression of perfumed fruit. This silky, textured and totally finessed Champagne is another impeccable wine from Roederer. The 2004 growing season was long and yields were higher than normal, yet Roederer has achieved a wonderful balance in this wine. The 2004 Brut was made from the estate’s north-facing vineyards and 40% of the wine was aged in oak. This is Lot L032125A00017, disgorged in December 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. This is another set of exceptional new releases from Roederer, one of the very few of the larger houses that captures the full potential of Champagne as an art of blended wine. Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon and his team have done a marvelous job with these Champagnes. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2004 Cristal, which will be released in the spring of 2010. Lecaillon is also working on a new wine, a Brut Nature Champagne (equal parts Pinot and Chardonnay, and likely to be a vintage wine) which will also be released next spring. Readers who want to learn more about this historic house may want to take a look at my vertical of Cristal going back to 1979. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Inc., Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

(L032125A100018) Orange-tinged pink. Deep, smoky aromas of dried redcurrant and cherry, with notes of anise, dried flowers and orange pith adding complexity. Deep but energetic, offering vibrant citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a bitter note of blood orange. Juicy on the finish, leaving spice and bitter herb notes behind. This is still quite young.