1996 Rubino

This wine boasts a dark ruby/purple color, as well as a textbook, Bordeaux-like nose of pain grille, cedar, cassis, and jammy cherry fruit. The wine's aromatics became more intense with airing. In the mouth, this sexy, surprisingly soft, full-bodied wine exhibits a multidimensional personality, layers of fruit, glycerin, and richness, and copious quantities of toasty new oak. It is an outstanding example of what can be done with low yields and impeccable winemaking. Not surprisingly, the oenologist is Riccardo Cotarella. Look for this wine to drink well for another 5-7 years. Made by proprietor Stefano Grilli, from a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, this offering has been a huge hit in other vintages, so I was not surprised by its strong showing in the good rather than exceptional 1996 vintage. Sadly, only 600 cases of this unfined/unfiltered vino da tavola were produced. A Leonardo Locasio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620