2005 Chambolle Musigny

The 2005 Chambolle-Musigny comes from extensive old vine acreage scattered about a range of relatively high-elevation parcels north and west of Le Musigny, and hints at its class of origin in an alluring nose of black cherry, plum, fresh meat juices, a savory, rich palate with salty, chalky mineral nuances and a refined, relatively delicate but persistent finish. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne (85). Pascal Lachaux (the late Robert Arnoux’s son-in-law, who has been in charge here now for nearly two decades) had just bottled his 2005 collection – vinified in his superb, recently-completed, gravity-fed facilities – when I visited. Lachaux compares the proper watchword of the winemaker in a vintage with Pinot as healthy and naturally-concentrated as in 2005, to that of a chef confronted with a perfect piece of fish: restraint. That also describes the results he has achieved in bottle, although allowance should be made for the possibility that the expression of certain wines was restrained by their recent bottling. mporter: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.