2005 Chambolle Musigny

The 2005 Chambolle-Musigny smells brightly of fresh cherry, cranberry, brown spices, iris, citrus zest and raw meat. Quite vivacious in the mouth and with satisfyingly sweet fresh fruit and pungent spice, it finishes with juicy fruit and bloody meatiness. This is a case of fine concentration with no sense of weight. I would not hesitate to begin enjoying this over the next two or three years. There is a distressing cloud hanging over this venerable estate because Hubert Lignier and the American widow of his son, Romain, have been unable to agree on pooling their resources, with the result that two sets of 2006s were vinified (and the 2005s may end up being sold under two different labels). The 2005s I tasted had been drawn earlier in the day as approximations to the final blends. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.