2004 Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs

The 2004 Brut Blanc de Blancs offers up gorgeous varietal fruit in a fairly rich style for a 2004 Blanc de Blancs. Textural finesse, brilliance and a total sense of harmony are the hallmarks of this suave, finessed Champagne. The small bubbles caress the palate from start to finish. L033331F100003. Disgorged March, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. My visit to these historic cellars earlier in the year was an eye-opening experience. I spent several hours with Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon tasting through a wide range of 2009s vins claires. Readers may want to take a look at my feature on www.erobertparker.com for more on those wines. The visit was capped off by previews of the 2004 Cristal and the as-yet-unreleased Cristal Rose. Both were superb. Over the last six months the 2004 Cristal has come together beautifully and is shaping up to be a truly great, monumental Champagne. From top to bottom, this is an impressive set of wines. My only real criticism of Roederer is the estate’s insistence on using lot numbers that resemble missile launch codes in their complexity. Surely something simpler must be possible. Importer: Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Inc., Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Bright yellow. Mineral-accented aromas of lemon, orange peel, jasmine and chamomile, with a touch of pear skin adding depth. Juicy citrus flavors show a silky quality, with spice and floral notes adding complexity. Gains flesh and sweetness with air and finishes with excellent clarity, cut and chalky persistence. This is balanced to age.

The 2004 Brut Blanc de Blancs offers up gorgeous varietal fruit in a fairly rich style for a 2004 Blanc de Blancs. Textural finesse, brilliance and a total sense of harmony are the hallmarks of this suave, finessed Champagne. The small bubbles caress the palate from start to finish. L033331F100003. Disgorged March, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Dec 2010, www.robertparker.com