2008 Echezeaux du Dessus
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The Echezeaux is another superb, harmonious 2008 from Gilles Jayer. This, too, is rather tightly wound, but with time in the glass, the wine gradually sheds some of its tannic heft. Crushed rocks, flowers, red berries and sweet spices are some of the nuances that spin out from a taut, wiry, yet deeply expressive frame. The finish boasts impeccable harmony and class. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033. This is a strong set of wines from Gilles Jayer. In 2009 the harvest took place from the 16th to the 24th of September. After vinification Jayer leaves the wines in oak with no racking until they are assembled prior to bottling. Jayer uses 100% new oak for all his wines. With the occasional exception of some of the entry-level offerings, the wines handle their new oak admirably well. I also had a chance to taste the 2008s. Aside from the Hautes Cotes de Beaune – which was too reduced to evaluate – the 2008s showed very well. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Bright, full red. Sappy black cherry, cocoa powder and minerals on the perfumed nose. Silky, rich and large-scaled for the vintage, conveying an impression of density without weight. Not hugely sweet but boasts terrific energy and a tight core of fruit. Finishes with serious tannins and mounting floral tones. I like this style.
Gilles Jayer’s 2008 Echezeaux du Dessus combines bright cherry, red currant and blackberry with marrow-rich and multi-boned meat stock; crushed stone; bitter-sweet herbs; and mouth-watering salinity. Texturally so refined as to be creamy, it’s hard to imagine this having come from the barrels next door to such an aggressively tannic Nuits Les Damodes. Not that the fat- and puffery-free leanness or energetic brightness typical of the best wines of its vintage are missing here – far from it. But there is exceptional polish and refinement. Hints of musk, white truffle, and black pepper add to the intrigue of an exhilarating finish. This ought to be worth following for at least the next 20 years. (As usual, there are eight barrels.) Gilles Jayer did not commence harvesting is 2008 Pinots until October 1, with his Echezeaux. (In 2007, he began August 31.) With the exception of a few top parcels, he notes, triage had to be more severe in 2007 (just as in 2006) than it was in 2008, when he estimates that only 3-5% of what arrived in the press house was rejected. These 2008s evolved very slowly, in many instances retaining gaseous memoirs of their malo-lactic fermentations through the winter of 2009-2010, and not only were none of them bottled until after I last tasted them, but the Cotes de Nuits-Villages was simply not ready to be assessed. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
Good full red. Highly nuanced nose combines blackberry, violet, smoked meat and pepper. Creamy and fine-grained but with lovely clarity and lift to the sappy flavors of red fruits, minerals and iron. Finishes very long and sweet, leaving the palate quivering. Gilles Jayer's other 2008s were in the middle of their malolactic fermentations in November and full of gas.