1997 Jacquesson

The 1997 Brut is an exotic wine bursting with tons of super-ripe fruit. For reasons I don’t fully understand, but perhaps related to the low dosage (3.5 g/l), despite the opulent style, the 1997 Brut comes across as painfully austere on the finish and lacking balance. There is a heaviness and lack of expressiveness here that are perplexing. The 1997 Brut is composed of Chardonnay from Oiry Champ Braux (35%), Avize (9%) and Chouilly (11%), and Pinot Noir from Ay Vauzelle Terme (28%) and Verzenay (17%). The wine was bottled unfiltered and disgorged in the first quarter of 2008, with a dosage of 3.5 grams per liter. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Admittedly I found these new releases from Jacquesson, one of Champagne’s most historic houses, somewhat perplexing. The entry-level NV Brut Cuvee No 733 is terrific, but some of the estate’s higher-end bottlings appear to be works in progress. Importer: Vintage 59 Imports, Washington DC; tel. (202) 966-9218

(disgorged first quarter 2008, L97.02) Bright yellow with a lazy bead. Highly complex bouquet displays scents of orange rind, poached pear, cinnamon, allspice, toasty lees and brown butter. Rich but energetic, offering an array of orchard and citrus fruit flavors and undertones of honey and green papaya. The spice notes repeat on the finish, which is focused, mineral-driven and very persistent. This Champagne is fully mature but in no danger of heading off the cliff.