2008 Opus One

Rich, deep and inviting plum colour, clear texture and concentration, this has really softened and opened up since I last tasted it in 2019, now full of energy and reserved power. This was the year that Bob Mondavi died, and that director Michael Silacci was working on introducing dry farming across the vineyard. Final year before Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy, viticulturist and assistant winemaker, returned to Bordeaux, where he is now winemaker of Mouton Rothschild. 100% new oak for ageing.

The 2008 Opus One showed well, with medium to full-bodied richness as well as some classic, mature Cabernet notes of smoked tobacco, truffle, celery seed, and chocolate-laced darker fruits. It has a good sense of finesse and elegance, is nicely balanced, and incredibly satisfying today. It should keep through 2033 or thereabout, although there’s no need to hold off.

(14.6% alcohol): Saturated red-ruby. Perfumed aromas of raspberry, redcurrant, tobacco, spices and rose petal, plus a whiff of smoked meat. Lovely juicy, fine-grained wine in a very firm style, offering an attractive balance of acidity and sweetness. Not especially expansive in the middle palate owing to a slight herbal streak but this wine should yet soften with more time in bottle. Certainly has the spine of dusty tannins to go on for another 12 to 15 years. In a restrained style, and perhaps passing through an awkward phase, but the fruit was very ripe here in '08 as the crop level was low and the harvest began during a heat spike. A touch of menthol accentuates the tannins today.