1979 Opus One

The first vintage of Opus One, still with plenty of colour at 43 years old. Tawny on the rim with a rose-red core, faring better than I expected, juicy and delicate, with an energy that builds through the palate. Opens with a focus on autumnal fruit and dried flowers, crushed roses and raspberry leaf, and only after a few beats does the clearer undergrowth and campfire smoke tertiary notes follow up. This is a high score, but wow can you tell that something magical was happening - it just feels complete, even now, with a core of brightness and tension. There is more bottle variation with this vintage than with the 1980, but if you get one as good as this, prepare to be blown away. What a triumph for the first vintage of Opus to still be tasting like this after so many decades. Winemakers were jointly Lucien Sionneau from Mouton and Robert Mondavi's son, Timothy Mondavi, who had just graduated from UC Davis at the time. 10 days skin contact.

The 1979 Opus One emerges from the glass with pine, menthol, sweet red cherries, tobacco, dried flowers and savory herbs. Deceptively medium in body, the 1979 packs a serious punch on the palate, where it still has fabulous depth and remarkable vigor for a wine of its age. Sweet, silky tannins frame the gorgeous finish. What a great start to this tasting. Any remaining bottles need to be enjoyed now, but the 1979 remains superb. Tim Mondavi describes 1979 as a fairly normal year, with a little more rain than normal. The blend is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Cabernet Franc and 4% Merlot.

Fully mature, brick rim but good depth of crimson too. Sweet, gentle fully mature nose. Not desperately intense but certainly eloquent enough. Quite a luscious palate entry with a bit of acidity showing now and some dryness on the finish. As though this wine is going downhill but very, very slowly. Not especially alcoholic. Fresh, refreshing. Contrary to popular folklore, Opus claim they didn’t poach fruit for this from the 1979 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Reserve because Lucian Sionneau of Mouton chose the leaner samples, leaving the fatter ones for Reserve. Only 10 day skin contact and he captured some of the press wines to mitigate this. (JR)