1982 Haut Brion
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Tasting notes
Five years since my last tasting of Haut-Brion 1982, and a pleasure to sink back into these stunning waves of sweet brambled raspberry and blackberry fruits. Tobacco, graphite, gunpowder tea, sandalwood, vanillin, grilled herbs and iodine come in waves, and this was a clear favourite around the table, balancing exuberance with finesse. Going back to the wine after an hour in the glass, it has held up excellently, but the saline tang was much more dominant. The Dillon family had been owners for five decades at this point, with Duchesse de Mouchy as president, and Jean Delmas winemaker as he had been since 1961 (2nd generation of the family to be in the role and one that he would hand over to his own son in 2004). This was also the last vintage before they bought neighbouring La Mission Haut-Brion.
Critic scores
Average Score
Robert Parker
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
Supple and enveloping, the 1982 Haut-Brion is drinking brilliantly today, wafting from the glass with aromas of red berries and plums, tobacco leaf, cedar box, scorched earth, cigar smoke and walnuts. Medium to full-bodied, broad and sensual, it's fleshy and giving, with a rich core of fruit, melting tannins and a long, resonant finish. At age 40, this is the most charming of the 1982 first growths, yet despite its outgoing personality, it seems to gain in stature with every passing year.
It is time that the 1982 Haut-Brion got the respect it deserves. Forever deemed the "least" of the First Growth, that holds no water if this example is anything to go by, the best of a couple of dozen bottles encountered over many years. Amazingly-fresh on the nose, this shimmers with red fruit, black olive, meat juices and incense, gaining vigour with each swirl of the glass. The palate is perfectly balanced with a lovely line of acidity, focused and refined with just a slightly roasted character towards the finish. Harmonious and effortless, it is the kind of claret that leaves you grinning like a Cheshire cat. (NM)
Enjoyed with Jay McInerney who was precluded from opening it (and the bottle of La Mission 1982 enjoyed alongside) when he took Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin to Frenchette who insisted he chose from their list of natural wines instead. In the prime of life. Mid ruby. Sweet, round, fairly soft (all tannin spent) with the signature warm bricks and tobacco aromas. Smudgy with a hint of sweet cassis. Really very gorgeous. (JR)
About the producer
Ch. Haut-Brion is the only classified growth in Pessac-Léognan. One of the five First Growths, it is renowned for producing both exceptional reds and whites. Along with its sister estate, Ch. la Mission Haut-Brion, it is part of the Clarence Dillon stable.