2007 Cirsion

(100% new oak) Extremely aromatic bouquet of oak-spiced dark berries, cherry compote, vanilla and incense. Rich but in no way heavy, showing good lift to its liqueur-like blackberry and blueberry flavors. Velvety tannins add shape to the long, sweet, alluringly spicy finish. This will drink well young but Roda's director Agustin Santolaya told me that he thinks the 2007s will surprise people. "This is an Atlantic vintage that appeals to people who like their Riojas feminine and balanced rather than massive," he said. "The best 2007s have the balance to keep aging after many of the hotter vintages have collapsed under their weight and alcohol."

The vertical of Cirsion, the Bodega’s flagship, begins with the 2007 Cirsion. Purple/black in color, it offers up an aromatic array of pain grille, pencil lead, Asian spices, licorice, balsamic, and blackberry. On the palate it is medium to full-bodied, spicy, and dense, but a bit more narrow than examples from the finest years. Give it another 5-7 years of cellaring and drink it through 2027. Bodegas Roda is a family-owned winery in Rioja that was founded in 1987. The winery was completed in 1991, and the first commercial vintage was 1992. Three tiers of wine have been produced, Roda, Roda I, and Cirsion, all from the estate’s 17 parcels of vines, each of which is vinified separately. No wine is made from vines less than 30 years of age. Roda I focuses on the dark fruit side of the spectrum, while Cirsion is a selection of the best vines within 4 of the 17 blocks. This luxury cuvee is produced only in good years; 2002 was not produced, and 2008 will be skipped over as well. Beginning with the 2008 vintage, Roda will be releasing an as yet to be named entry-level wine designed to be more forward and appealing to younger wine drinkers. A barrel sample was very pleasant and is likely to sell for under $20. In addition, Roda has begun a project in Ribera del Duero. I tasted barrel samples of 2008 and 2009 of this yet to be named wine, and they revealed plenty of promise. Importer: Kobrand, New York, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700

The vertical of Cirsion, the Bodega’s flagship, begins with the 2007 Cirsion. Purple/black in color, it offers up an aromatic array of pain grille, pencil lead, Asian spices, licorice, balsamic, and blackberry. On the palate it is medium to full-bodied, spicy, and dense, but a bit more narrow than examples from the finest years. Give it another 5-7 years of cellaring and drink it through 2027. Jay Miller-eRobertParker.com # 189 Jun 2010