1989 Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros

While I did not see the Martinenga offering in 1989, I did taste the two single vineyard offerings, the Gaiun Martinenga and the Camp Gros Martinenga. The local cognoscenti claim that the Gaiun section of the Martinenga vineyard, which abuts the famous Asili vineyard, produces smoother, more velvety-textured wines than the Camp Gros section, which abuts the Rabaja vineyard. The 1989 Camp Gros Martinenga possesses less charm, more dusty tannin, and a fuller-bodied, richer, more concentrated, muscular style than the 1989 Gaiun Martinenga. Nevertheless, it is a more complete Barbaresco because of its great richness and ripeness. Yet its ethereal bouquet is reminiscent of the Gaiun. The Camp Gros should last for 15 or more years. The Marchesi di Gresy's La Martinenga vineyard is highly regarded by everyone in Barbaresco. This producer vinifies and bottles separately two parcels with La Martinenga called Camp Gros and Gaiun. This vineyard, which abuts both the esteemed Rabaja and Asili vineyards, is entirely owned by di Gresy. The style of wine that emerges is one of extraordinary finesse and elegance. In 1989 and 1990 di Gresy's wines are the finest I have tasted from this estate. In the past their emphasis on medium-weight, forward, lighter Barbarescos has tended to compromise this vineyard's full potential. The 1989s and 1990s, while offering the classic, elegant style favored by Marchesi di Gresy, possess more richness and concentration than preceding years. These are thrilling Barbarescos! Importer: Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL.