2002 Oberhauser Brucke Eiswein

The 2002 Riesling Eiswein Oberhauser Brucke is a grand slam home run for Donnhoff. It is so intense, so powerful, and so complex as to instill fear in the taster. Its apricot and peach cobbler aromas lead to a jellied core of cassis, raspberries, syrupy slate, and oodles of spices. It is simply amazing that a wine of this richness, ripeness, and depth can retain perfect definition, grip, and refinement. What is truly terrifying, however, is that Donnhoff produced a three-star Eiswein from the same vineyard in 2002, one he presumably considers better than this sublime nectar. Part of me is grateful that I was unable to taste it, however, as I have only 100 points with which to work. Bravo! Projected maturity: 2015-2040+. For the second year in a row, Helmut Donnhoff has left me shaking my head in wonder. Having tasted the greatest wines in the world, year in and year out, as a wine merchant and as a critic, did not prepare me for the awe-inspiring experience of tasting through Donnhoff’s 2001s and 2002s. They are magical, emotional, breath-taking. My words cannot do them justice. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Syrup. Lime syrup. Less subtle than Leitz's BA and TBA – simpler. But great exotic flower aromas. Well done. (JR)