2009 Chablis Tete d'Or

The 2009 Chablis Tete d'Or is an exceptionally polished, elegant wine in this vintage. Layers of fruit emerge effortlessly from this suave, generous white. The oak is felt in the wine's volume and gentle spiciness. Clean, mineral notes deftly balance the creamy finish. The Tete d'Or is a selection of two of the house's parcels just below Montee de Tonnerre. The wine was vinified 25% in oak and 75% in stainless steel. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Billaud-Simon is now run by Bernard Billaud, following the exit of his nephew, Samuel Billaud, last year. The 2009 harvest began in late September and ran into early October, quite late by Chablis standards in this vintage. Not surprisingly, the Billaud-Simon 2009s are built on an expression of generous fruit that shows the ripeness and softness of the vintage. The 2009s were bottled beginning in September, 2010. As is quite common, the premier and grand crus saw a longer elevage, here roughly 16-18 months. The last of the grand crus were bottled in May, 2011. I also tasted most of the 2010s from tank and barrel, including several lots of the Petit Chablis and Chablis that had just been racked and were impossible to read. The estate began harvesting the 2010s on October 1st. It was a year in which maturation happened only at the very end of the season. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

(from vines at the foot of Montee de Tonnerre; vinified 20% in wood and 80% in tank): Pale straw-yellow. Subtle aromas of lemon ice, powdered stone and mint. Rather creamy, broad and deep, with a spicy sweetness perked up by underlying minerality. Nicely fine-grained wine with the ripeness to stand up to the oak element.