2007 Cotes du Roussillon Bila Haut V.I.T

A very limited production blend of 65% Grenache (from ancient vines, on chalk-clay) and 35% Syrah (on schist) raised in barrel, then transferred to tank (from which it was tasted), the 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France v.i.t (standing for “"visitare interiore terrae") displays aromas of fresh blackberry and cassis, violets, buddleia, and hyacinth. Low-toned coffee and wet stone notes nicely complement the ripe yet bright black fruits on the palate, which is marvelously threaded with a savory, saline, subtly sweet suggestion of lobster shell reduction. The refinement of tannin exhibited by so many of the Chapoutier Roussillon cuvees reaches an almost silken apogee here. Trouillier thinks that getting the Grenache components, especially, out of barrel soon enough and giving them a longer stay in tank is a key both to introducing “rectitude” in the finished wines, and to taming their tannins. With its remarkable combination of richness, levity, and minerality, this epitomizes the best aspects of its vintage and of Bila-Haut’s viticulture and vinification. It should be worth following for more than a decade. Michel Chapoutier’s outpost in Roussillon – begun in 1993 and moved into its spacious current facilities in 2000 – operates under the immediate direction of exceptionally talented winemaker Gilles Troullier. With around 150 acres and more than 30 parcels of largely old vines under contract (including some exciting new material in 2008) this is a major source for some of the most carefully crafted wines and among the finest values in the region. It is also one of many French addresses where there has been a recent move in the direction of larger barrels (especially demi-muids) and to more sophisticated forms of concrete, and a corresponding de-emphasis of stainless steel tanks and (225-liter) barriques. Troullier opines that after six years of biodynamic regimen on these wines (which includes working many of the parcels by horse) there has recently been a “crescendo in quality.” Without hazarding an opinion on its causes, that crescendo certainly had my nose and palate ringing when I left here! For reviews of other Roussillon Chapoutier projects, please see under Agly Brothers as well as Chapoutier. Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456