1981 Brunello di Montalcino

The 1981 Brunello di Montalcino is striking in its beauty. Dried cherry, licorice, worn-in leather and spice are all nicely delineated. Expressive and fully resolved, but with a good amount of freshness, the 1981 is one of the best vintages for drinking now, as all the elements are simply in the right place. Initially, the 1981 comes across as a touch fragile, but it gains volume, depth and freshness, as Soldera wines often do. This is a superb showing and also one of the surprises of the afternoon.

One of the real surprises of the night, the 1981 Brunello di Montalcino is magnificent. The aromatics alone are striking. Smoke, saddle leather, herbs and dark-fleshed fruits all develop beautifully in the glass. With time, the 1981 gains a surprising amount of power and freshness. Although mature, the 1981 is marvelously intact. What a great way to start this tasting.

Soldera’s 1981 Brunello di Montalcino, from my cellar, is utterly exquisite. Still bright and deep, the 1981 impresses for its depth. Hints of truffle, tobacco and soy sauce suggest the 1981 is mature, but these wines have proven to age a glacial pace, and there is more than enough fruit to suggest the 1981 will reach its 40th birthday in fine shape. Although a bit rustic next to the masterpieces that follow, the 1981 is a real treat to taste and drink.