2003 Evangile

The dark ruby-colored 2003 (which suffered from the hot weather in June, July, and August) is already revealing some lightening at the edge. This soft, round, sensual (12.8% alcohol) effort had to be harvested before it could achieve the texture, depth, and persistence of a profound l’Evangile such as 2000 or 1998. The charming, but superficial 2003 requires consumption during its first 7-8 years of life. As a postscript, readers should realize that major investments and extraordinary efforts in both the vineyard and cellar are being made at L’Evangile. I predict it will eventually rival Petrus and Lafleur as one of the finest wines of the appellation. The estate has also introduced a second wine called Blason, which permits them to cull out lots not good enough for the grand vin.

(a 79/21 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; currently 12.94% alcohol) Good dark ruby-red. Sappy, liqueur-like aromas of maraschino cherry, cassis, licorice and smoky oak. Sweet, supple and chocolatey, with reasonably fresh flavors of framboise, cassis and violet. This doesn't show the inner-mouth tension or depth of the best vintages of L'Evangile, but it's not especially roasted either. Finishes with a fine coating of dusty tannins. The yield was just 24 hectoliters per hectare, due in large part to coulure

Plenty of plum and spice with hints of licorice. Medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and a fresh finish. Slightly hollow center palate, but should fill in nicely. Score range: 89-91. James Suckling,Wine Spectator 2004.