1989 Grands Echezeaux
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Neal Martin
Allen Meadows, Burghound
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I have never been convinced by the performance of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in this year and the 1989 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru did nothing but reinforce that view. Stalky and rather disjointed on the nose, the stem addition here seems to jar against the fruit rather than complement it. Rasping? The palate is medium-bodied, rustic and with a gritty texture. Masculine and firm in the mouth, it falls a long way short of the wines produced nowadays and the chewy finish feels coarse and attenuated. Tasted November 2016.
About the producer
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti or simply “DRC” is without doubt the most famous domaine in Burgundy and one of the most famous producers on earth. The Grand Cru vineyard from which it takes its name produces the world’s most expensive wine by a long margin.