2005 Grands Echezeaux

This plot, close to Le Musigny I am assured, was planted in 1926. Very deep crimson but there is something just very faintly stewed about the fruit to my nose. Thick, dense, glossy and just a little bit flashy. Sturdy rather than magical. (JR)

From another parcel Laurent says is unusually rocky and thinly sub-soiled for its appellation (in this instance, next to Le Musigny), his two barrels of Grands Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes offer aromas of candied cherry and vanilla, a liqueur-like, almost confectionary and imposingly creamy palate impression, and a finish in which sheer ripeness, allied to notes of vanilla, caramel and coconut-shavings, make for a flamboyant display of oak-encased fruit. For clarity, purity, length, and sheer richness and sweetness of fruit, this is hard to fault, and I wonder whether the impression of extraneous woodiness is a momentary phase. Surprisingly, Laurent finds it necessary to routinely chaptalize the fruit of these eighty year-old vines (“a different strain of old Pinot” he calls them), reporting that even in 2003 it barely reached 12.5% potential alcohol. A Patrick Lesec Selection, Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23; Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327 0808

(from vines planted in 1926) Full, deep ruby-red. Compelling nose combines black cherry, dark raspberry, minerals, flowers and a chocolatey superripeness. Hugely concentrated and rather outsized for this grand cru, with great depth of fruit and a texture of liquid silk. And yet this big boy boasts uncanny definition of flavor. Powerful finish features substantial ripe tannins and great persistence. Laurent says these vines are planted next to Musigny, on rock. This should evolve in bottle for 20 years or more.