2005 Lafleur

An absolute monster of a wine, the 2005 Château Lafleur is epitome of this vintage with its dense, massive style. A blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, its deep plum hue is followed by a rich, powerful, full-bodied Lafleur that has lots of ripe currant and darker, smoky black fruits as well as notes of scorched earth, saddle leather, and flowers. It has a stacked mid-palate, an inward, concentrated mouthfeel, ripe yet still present tannins, and a great finish. It’s still in need of another 5-7 years, if not a decade of bottle age, and will probably see its 100th birthday in fine form.

The 2005 Lafleur is quite a bit less showy than most Pomerols in this vintage. I suspect the high percentage of Cabernet Franc may have something to do with it. Aromatically intense, but also austere, the 2005 feels like it needs more time. The bouquet is captivating, but huge tannins make Lafleur much less accessible today than most of its peers. Time brings out gorgeous hints of blood orange, mint, cinnamon, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco, but those are mere illusions, as the 2005 remains quite tannic. It will be interesting to see what time brings. Both bottles I tasted showed consistently.

The 2005 Lafleur does not quite match up to previous examples and certainly juxtaposed against the 2000 Lafleur, I have a preference for the millennial. Still, I am quibbling. It has a tightly-wound bouquet at first with blackberry, wild strawberry, black truffle and minerals that only reluctantly unfolds over the course of two or three hours. I cannot recall the nose on the 2005 being so obdurate! The palate is medium-bodied, the tannins not quite as fine as the 2000, and grainy in texture. The Cabernet Franc is more expressive towards the finish, imparting notes of dried blood and cured meat. This remains a great Pomerol although I do not find it ageing with the same level of grace as the 2000. Tasted at the Christies’ Lafleur masterclass in London.