2004 Scharzhofberger Kabinett
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Tasting notes
The Muller 2004 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett A.P. #8 smells of pineapple and melon, with a faint hint of botrytis spice and high toned esters. In the mouth the wine is honeyed, tropical-fruited, rich and spicy, silky in feel and – considering the vintage and region – surprisingly soft. The finish is fresh and clear, evincing melon along with subtle suggestions of wet slate, and the overall impression polished and refined. Muller’s harvest (other than Eiswein) was completed in mid-November because, he maintained, the off and on rain rendered additional development of truly noble rot unlikely. While this year’s collection offered marginally less excitement in the lower price echelons than we have come to expect from a couple of recent vintages, those of the top wines that I tasted were noble indeed - fully worthy of this estate’s lofty reputation and prices. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY (212) 355-0700.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Water white. More aroma, and more obvious sulphur than the 2003. The 2004 is much more typical of their Kabinett. Steely nose. Very pure, racy acidity. (JR)
Strong mineral element on the nose. Fir texture and tingle. Lively, featherlight (9 per cent). Great purity again and still rather astringent. (JR)
About the producer
Egon Müller is the most famous name in Riesling. The estate produces the world’s most expensive sweet white wines from the Grand Cru Scharzhofberg vineyard in Mosel, Germany.