2010 Chablis Montmains

The 2010 Chablis Montmains veers a bit more towards the yellow stone fruit end of the spectrum yet maintains gorgeous energy and vibrancy. Hints of nectarine, peach and crushed rocks meld together on the inviting, caressing finish. The Montmains is a bit voluptuous for the year. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Once again, my tasting with Benoit Droin was one of the highlights of my trip to Chablis.Vintage 2011 was characterized by an early, easy and even flowering, which resulted in a generous crop. August rains bloated the grapes, which turned out to be a bit of an issue, as the harvest was several weeks earlier than normal. Droin began bringing in his 2011s on August 31st, three full weeks earlier than 2010. Droin describes 2011 as having lower acidity than 2010 and being better than 2005, 2006 and 2009 in a style that sits in between 2003 and 2007, if that makes sense. Droin’s 2011 are quite strong across the board, even if they lack the visceral thrill of the very best years. Personally, I prefer the 2010s, which I loved the minute I first tasted them from tank last year. The wines have a combination of fruit and acidity that is striking. Droin doesn’t seem to get a lot of attention in the press, but in my opinion, this is one of the very finest producers in Chablis. I have also had great luck with older bottles, as these are typically wines that age beautifully. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Pale, bright straw-yellow. Subtly complex nose melds lemon oil, orange blossom, vanilla and white truffle, plus a hint of hazelnut; "not grilled like the hotter years," notes Droin. Sweet and rather lush in texture but with harmonious acidity keeping it fresh. Plenty in reserve here: this sexy wine should reward some time in bottle.

Juicy and green and really very rewarding for the money. Lots of fruit but not just sweetness. Chewy and very, very appetising. Great balance. VGV (JR)