2007 Cloudy Bay Chardonnay

The 2007 Chardonnay spent a year in barrel matured in 20% new oak with 8% under malo. The fruit again seems rather subdued and lacking definition. Touches of grapefruit and dried mango, but all rather smudged. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe honeyed fruits, touches of nectarine and passion fruit, the oak a little prominent especially on the finish but it has more definition and poise than the Sauvignon Blanc. Moderate length. It comes across rather anonymous. Big changes at Cloudy Bay, having parted ways with founding winemaker Kevin Judd who stays on as consultant and relinquishing the services of senior winemaker Eveline Fraser in April 2009. I have expressed my reservations with this iconic producer in WA176 and returning one year later I returned as open-minded as ever, yet I still find that their portfolio is a notch behind other Marlborough producers. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY

Not much nose. Lots of spine and steeliness. Not a hint of sweetness. In fact almost more like a Clos Ste Hune in its minerality than a Chardonnay. Or should I say Puligny? Well done!  (JR)