2008 Chablis

Clean and chalky and chiselled. Racy and very true with its combo of wet stones and wet wool. (JR)

Wintergreen, grapefruit, ocean breeze, and crushed chalk scent Tribut’s 2008 Chablis, which offers a generously juicy, citrus-dominated, vivacious but palpably dense palate, and finishes with excellent, white pepper- and chalk-tinged length. This outstanding example of its ubiquitous appellation should harbor at least 5-7 years of versatile enjoyment. Laurent Tribut was about to begin bottling when I visited him in mid-April, so all of his wines were tasted assembled in tank. Tribut is among those who while pointing out similarities to 1996, concludes that his 2008s are far more generous, and indeed today – like me – prefers them to his 2007s, although his age-worthy 2008 premier crus are firmer and more intensely mineral than even the majority of 2007s. (Tribut had me going, incidentally, when he served one bright yet rich, truffly, entertainingly interactive, and recognizably 1996 Chablis this spring. I was trying to guess the cru, but it was his village wine of that vintage.) Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Pale yellow. Ripe, expressive aromas of mirabelle, honey and toast. Supple, ripe and concentrated, with a creamy texture to the flavors of metallic minerality and white truffle. Very Chablis, and rich for village wine. Tribut never practices batonnage but he noted that he left his 2008s on their lees longer, as it was a more incisive vintage from the outset and could use some more buffering texture.