2009 Chablis

The 2009 Chablis is a pretty, entry-level wine. It shows considerable energy and lovely overall balance through to the round finish. It is a fabulous wine, particularly at this price.Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. This is an exciting set of wines from Benoit Droin, one of the generation of rising stars in Chablis. The estate farms nine hectares of vineyards. Benoit Droin told me his choice of when to start picking in 2009 was deeply influenced by 2006, a year in which he felt he waited too long. The 2009s were brought in beginning in early September. The wines were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in steel and/or barrel, depending on the specific wine, as noted above. The 2010s, which I tasted from tank in their final blends, were among the highlights of my trip to Chablis. The 2010 harvest began on September 20th. Yields were down 30% on average. I also tasted a few older bottles, including the 2002 Valmur and 2004 Vaudesir, both of which were in great shape. Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Ripe pineapple on the nose and palate. Offers good breadth but modest intensity and finishes a tad dry. The same wine from a second tank showed a bit more richness and precision along with an exotic suggestion of banana, but also missed out on depth and flavor intensity.