2009 Chablis

The 2009 Chablis shows lovely focus and drive. Well-delineated aromatics, chiseled fruit and a lively finish define this tasty, vibrant white. The finish is pure and striking. This is another highly attractive entry-level bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2013. Billaud-Simon is now run by Bernard Billaud, following the exit of his nephew, Samuel Billaud, last year. The 2009 harvest began in late September and ran into early October, quite late by Chablis standards in this vintage. Not surprisingly, the Billaud-Simon 2009s are built on an expression of generous fruit that shows the ripeness and softness of the vintage. The 2009s were bottled beginning in September, 2010. As is quite common, the premier and grand crus saw a longer elevage, here roughly 16-18 months. The last of the grand crus were bottled in May, 2011. I also tasted most of the 2010s from tank and barrel, including several lots of the Petit Chablis and Chablis that had just been racked and were impossible to read. The estate began harvesting the 2010s on October 1st. It was a year in which maturation happened only at the very end of the season. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900

(from vineyards on the "left bank" of the Serein): Pale straw-yellow. Pure aromas of white peach and ripe pear. Sweet, fruity and open-knit; in a distinctly round, fleshy style and ready to drink now. Just a bit harsh on the end.

Scented, rather ethereal nose. Dry and racy with a really delicate texture that gets the saliva flowing. Some sucky-stony character. Bravo! (JR)