2010 Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets

The 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret comes across as cool, inward and reticent. It is a gorgeous, complete wine loaded with both fruit and minerality. Accordingly, the Clos du Cailleret needs time to come together. The age of the vines and the high percentage of shot berries contribute to the richness and sheer weight of the fruit. This is a promising wine, but it needs time. The Clos du Cailleret is the last parcel harvested at the maison.

The 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret comes across as cool, inward and reticent. It is a gorgeous, complete wine loaded with both fruit and minerality. Accordingly, the Clos du Cailleret needs time to come together. The age of the vines and the high percentage of shot berries contribute to the richness and sheer weight of the fruit. This is a promising wine, but it needs time. The Clos du Cailleret is the last parcel harvested at the maison. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Vincent Girardin recently sold his operation to Compagnie des Vins d’Autrefois, which previously had an ownership stake in the company. As part of the transaction, Girardin keeps eight hectares of vineyards, from which he will continue to supply the house. I am told that all the other fruit contracts remain in place, ensuring continuity in the maison’s range. Long-time winemaker Eric Germain, who has worked alongside Girardin for ten years, remains at the helm. So far, it looks like a little has changed, but it is early days so we will see. Germain told me the 2010s were harvested beginning on September 5. The premier and grand crus spent 18 months in oak (20% new), followed by two months in steel before being bottled in April and May 2012. As I wrote last year, the Girardin wines have undergone a pretty dramatic stylistic shift over the last few years. Today, the wines are made in a brighter, more focused style with less of the overt richness and oak influence the winemaking team believes was contributing to the premature evolution of the wines. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Bright yellow. Captivating nose of powdered stone, white flowers, ginger and nutmeg. Suave on entry, then fine-grained, silky and elegant in the middle and more harmonious today than the Chaumees. Ripe nectarine and spice flavors build impressively on the back end, which offers good stony cut.