2009 Chablis Les Clos

The 2009 Chablis Les Clos is a beauty. Stunningly rich and deep, it possesses gorgeous textural richness and depth in its layers of intensely perfumed peaches and apricots. The fruit totally saturates the palate with incredible depth and nuance in its perfume. Seductive and enthralling at first, the Clos turns positively explosive on the finish. Gorgeous, expressive scents linger on the close. Fevre’s parcels are on the limestone-rich upper slopes of Les Clos. About 50% of these vineyards were planted in the 1940s. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. This is an impressive set of wines from William Fevre and winemaker Didier Seguier. The 2009 harvest began on September 14. Seguier claims the date of harvest has become increasingly important in recent years relative to the past, as warmer temperatures create a narrower window for optimal picking times. All of the wines at Fevre are partially fermented in oak, ranging from 5-10% for the entry-level wines up to 60-70% for the grand crus. Seguier prefers neutral barrels that are on average five years old. In general the entry-level wines are fermented with commercial yeasts, while the 1er and grand crus are fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines spend four to six months in oak, and are then racked into steel for the completion of their elevage, which lasts about 15 months. The wines are aged on their lees with no batonnage throughout the entirety of this time. Approximately 80% of the estate’s 50 hectares are farmed biodynamically, including all of the 1er and grand crus. The 2009 and 2010 vintages were not kind to Fevre in terms of production. In 2009, insects with very selective appetites damaged 20+% of the crop, while in 2010 yields were down as much as 50% because of widespread shatter during flowering. As is the case throughout Chablis, the 2009s look to be wines built on fruit that are best-suited for early and mid-term drinking. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, a vintage Seguier describes as more classic, with acidities that are in line with the estate’s 2007s and 2008s. Fevre makes both a Domaine range and a Maison range. I have listed the wines separately for maximum clarity. Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 6706

Pale yellow. Subtle stone and citrus fruit aromas complicated by white pepper and a whiff of honey. Wonderfully rich and solid in the mouth, but with a distinct youthful austerity to the flavors of orange peel, iodine and pepper. The palate-dusting finish is tactile, dry and extremely long. This aristocratic wine is still an infant and may well merit an even higher score with extended cellaring.

Nose is both creamy and mineral. Palate is fine and dry and textured – just lacking in intensity. But long. (JH)