2005 Pierre Gimonnet Extra Brut Oenophile Non Dose

From a (for his wines) typically diverse range of sites in four communes, Gimonnet’s 2005 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Oenophile is utterly fascinating and distinctive. Scents and flavors of ripe, brightly juicy tomato and dried wild mushrooms mingle with intimations of chalk as well as saliva-drawing salinity. The finish is understated – some might add “austere” – but sustained as well as both soothing and refreshing. This should prove totally engaging and versatile at table over at least the next couple of years. Pierre Gimonnet farms nearly 70 prime acres – overwhelmingly in the Cote des Blancs – which are reflected in a similarly enormous range of different cuvees, most of them represented in the U.S. market in any given year and tasted by me for this report. What’s more, future expansion of official Champagne acreage around Cramant and Chouilly will offer Gimonnet opportunity to broaden his vine footprint. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

(aged on its lees for 6 years; disgorged April 25, 2012): Pale yellow. A highly complex nose displays fresh citrus fruits, quince, honeysuckle, ginger and iodine, with a chalky mineral quality gaining power with air. Spicy and fine-grained, with superb vivacity and depth to its lemon, lime zest and mineral flavors. Shows outstanding finesse and finishes with emphatic mineral, citrus and floral qualities lingering.