1999 Clos Apalta

The outstanding, saturated dark ruby-colored 1999 Clos Apalta is produced from the Rapel Valley's oldest vineyard, from which it takes its name. As with all viticulture in dry land farming areas, this vineyard was irrigated for years. A problem prevented it from receiving water a few years ago, and Alexandra Marnier-Lapostolle and her team quickly realized that the vineyard no longer needed to be irrigated, as the old vines' roots had reached deep enough into the ground to find water. Its raspberry liqueur, cherry, and blackberry aromas are followed by an immensely concentrated, well-balanced, and powerful character. This full-bodied wine captures the taster's palate with wave after wave of sur-maturite-laced red and black fruits. It is a broad-shouldered, intense wine for drinking between 2005 and 2015. Readers who doubt the potential influence of a wine consultant who only spends a very short time each year visiting his/her clients should bear the following in mind. For this report, hundreds of Chilean wines were tasted, yet only a handful of estates stood out. Casa Lapostolle, where Bordeaux's famed oenologist Michel Rolland spends a couple of weeks a year, is one of the few islands of high quality in a sea of wine dominated by dilution, vapidness, and commercial blandness/mediocrity. Importer: Schieffelin & Somerset, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8337.

The outstanding, saturated dark ruby-colored 1999 Clos Apalta is produced from the Rapel Valley's oldest vineyard, from which it takes its name. As with all viticulture in dry land farming areas, this vineyard was irrigated for years. A problem prevented it from receiving water a few years ago, and Alexandra Marnier-Lapostolle and her team quickly realized that the vineyard no longer needed to be irrigated, as the old vines' roots had reached deep enough into the ground to find water. Its raspberry liqueur, cherry, and blackberry aromas are followed by an immensely concentrated, well-balanced, and powerful character. This full-bodied wine captures the taster's palate with wave after wave of sur-maturite-laced red and black fruits. It is a broad-shouldered, intense wine for drinking between 2005 and 2015. Apr 2002, ww.robertparker.com

A big step up from 1997 for me. Wonderful colour and an edge of meat extract on the nose. Definitely more savoury than either 2000 or 1997. Spreads across the palate like a society creep (I wrote under the hot Chilean sun). Lots of structure. Ink and life and density. Most impressive. May 2002, www.jancisrobinson.com