2009 Chablis Butteaux

The 2009 Chablis Butteaux shows yet another dimension of what Chablis can be. Dark, pungent aromas and flavors lead to a generous core of fruit. Some rough edges remain, especially on the finish, but this is, nevertheless, a strong effort. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. (Not yet released) Bernard Raveneau provides unusual perspective with regards to the 2010s. While most of his colleagues talk about a vintage with high acidity, Raveneau points out that the 2010s are actually low in acidity relative to the wines Chablis produced in the 1970s and 1980s. Yields in 2010 were 20% lower than in 2009. The vineyards on the right bank were affected by the irregular flowering, while the vineyards on the left bank were hit by hail in July. August was warm until the end of the month, when rain became a bit of an issue. Raveneau began harvesting the 2010s on September 22, while the 2009s were brought in beginning on September 14. The 2009s were bottled two weeks before my visit. These are two thrilling collections from one of the village’s uncontested superstars. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Quite closed on the nose, hinting at menthol and wet stone. Then juicy and tight in the mouth, more taut and incisive than silky today, and showing superb precision for the vintage. Solid mineral grip extends the finish and gives this premier cru excellent tension, but it will need five or six years to unwind.

Pale yellow color. Rather reduced aromas of musky pineapple, honeysuckle and wet stone. Rich, broad and supple in the middle, with a ripe pineapple flavor dominating, then firmly mineral on the back end, with a palate-dusting finish of crushed stone. This is like drinking two different wines today and is likely to require some time in bottle to come into harmony.