2007 Bourgogne Blanc

The Ente 2007 Bourgogne prominently features fresh lemon, grapefruit, and herbs, but while texturally spare, is more luscious than that description or the wine's borderline sense of ripeness might suggest. Like the corresponding Aligote – but in a more winsome context – this loads the palate with lasting high-toned herbal essences and residues of salt and chalk, for a metaphorically cool mineral bath. This epitome of its vintage – at least as Ente perceives it – should prove versatile over the next 2-3 years. Arnaud Ente began picking September 2, but although he is nearly always a partisan of early harvest, this one was spread out over nearly two weeks to optimize the aggregation of clarity and sufficient ripeness. That said, high acidity – including a sizeable share of malic acid – remained a common denominator and higher than in 2004 because, in Ente's words, "there was no heat during the summer to burn it off." His malo-lactic fermentations, however, were finished already in mid-winter. Natural alcohol levels were low – predictably, given both the vintage and Ente's strategy and preferences – not exceeding 12.5%, and only the Aliogte was chaptalized. For Ente, vintages without hot summer weather are simply the more interesting and enjoyable, thanks in large part precisely to their higher acidity and lower alcohol. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524